{"id":892,"date":"2010-02-16T13:20:19","date_gmt":"2010-02-16T18:20:19","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/?page_id=892"},"modified":"2020-07-31T13:11:38","modified_gmt":"2020-07-31T18:11:38","slug":"logan","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/peaks\/logan\/","title":{"rendered":"Logan"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Elevation: <strong>5959 m (19551 ft)<\/strong><br \/>\nLocation: Canada, Yukon Territory; 60? 34&#8242; N; 140? 24&#8242; W<\/p>\n<p>Distinction: Highest mountain of Canada, second highest of North-America (part of Second Seven Summits) and the most remote of all Panamerican Peaks, surrounded by the largest non-polar icefields in the world. <\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_1976\" style=\"width: 650px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/02\/P6010596.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1976\" src=\"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/02\/P6010596-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"\" title=\"On the Summit of Mt. Logan, with Kluane Icefields below\" width=\"640\" height=\"480\" class=\"size-large wp-image-1976\" srcset=\"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/02\/P6010596-1024x768.jpg 1024w, http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/02\/P6010596-300x225.jpg 300w, http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/02\/P6010596.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 640px) 100vw, 640px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-1976\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">On the Summit of Mt. Logan, with Kluane Icefields below<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Photos of <a href=\"https:\/\/photos.app.goo.gl\/HfhRhQ1ppDVwnEpGA\">Mount Logan<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Also, check out the Logan panorama photos in this <a href=\"https:\/\/photos.app.goo.gl\/RSiGK93jBk7Bk2zC7\"> Panoramas library<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Back to <a href=\"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/peaks\">Peaks<\/a> page.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Mt. Logan Facts<\/strong> (copied from my friend Zoran Vasic&#8217; <a href=\"http:\/\/leavenotraceexpeditions.blogspot.com\/\">expedition page<\/a>):<\/p>\n<p>First Ascent: Tuesday June 23, 1925 A. MacCarthy; H. Lambar; W. Foster; N. Read<\/p>\n<p>The Logan massif rises about 3000 m from the surrounding glaciers and has the largest base circumference of any mountain on Earth. A glaciated plateau, about 20 km long and 5 km wide covers the top of the massif. About a dozen peaks rise from the plateau &#8211; the highest being Mount Logan&#8217;s main summit.<\/p>\n<p>Due to its proximity to the Gulf of Alaska, severe snow storms can hit the upper part of the mountain any time of the year. The climbing season is from late April to early July. Generally, the weather deteriorates as the summer progresses. Springtime winds can exceed 160 km\/hour; temps on the glacier can range from -40? to +80? F.<\/p>\n<p>The mountain is normally accessed by ski-equipped aircraft or helicopter. <\/p>\n<p><strong>2009 Expedition with Canada West Mountain School<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Videos<\/strong>:<\/p>\n<p>Summary Video (6min) of entire expedition:<br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/gjfjQF7XCdM\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Simulated Flight around Summit from Google Earth Satellite Data:<br \/>\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\" src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/Gy8vTdXWyEk\" frameborder=\"0\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/p>\n<p>Sunset on King Col, 4150m, at Mount Logan expedition 2009:<br \/>\n<object width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/iZCohzccwR4&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\"><\/param><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"><\/param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"><\/param><embed src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/iZCohzccwR4&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\" type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><\/embed><\/object><\/p>\n<p>Large crevasse above King Col at 4700m on Mount Logan:<br \/>\n<object width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/c6QU_h4b6BY&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\"><\/param><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"><\/param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"><\/param><embed src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/c6QU_h4b6BY&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\" type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><\/embed><\/object><\/p>\n<p>Arriving at Camp 3, 4850m, above crevasse on Mount Logan:<br \/>\n<object width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/uTYgbKtILns&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\"><\/param><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"><\/param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"><\/param><embed src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/uTYgbKtILns&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\" type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><\/embed><\/object><\/p>\n<p>Ski descent from Camp 4, 5250m, to Camp 3 on Mount Logan:<br \/>\n<object width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/JaWoHTpryaU&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\"><\/param><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"><\/param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"><\/param><embed src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/JaWoHTpryaU&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\" type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><\/embed><\/object><\/p>\n<p>Reaching the summit of Mount Logan, highest point of Canada:<br \/>\n<object width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><param name=\"movie\" value=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/-1uwmcY78Wk&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\"><\/param><param name=\"allowFullScreen\" value=\"true\"><\/param><param name=\"allowscriptaccess\" value=\"always\"><\/param><embed src=\"http:\/\/www.youtube.com\/v\/-1uwmcY78Wk&#038;hl=en&#038;fs=1&#038;\" type=\"application\/x-shockwave-flash\" allowscriptaccess=\"always\" allowfullscreen=\"true\" width=\"560\" height=\"340\"><\/embed><\/object><\/p>\n<p>You can&#8217;t just ride to the base of this mountain and climb it solo. Just getting there is a considerable project. I joined the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.themountainschool.com\/expeditions\/mount-logan.html\">Canada West Mountain School 2009 expedition to Mt. Logan<\/a>, Kings Trench route. <\/p>\n<p>I was surprised to find only one expedition going to Mt. Logan in 2009. There are 50-100 times more people on Denali than on Mt. Logan. Denali is part of the Seven Summits and in some years more than 1000 climbers reach the top. On Mt. Logan, there are years where nobody stands on its summit! It is the most remote place I have ever visited. <\/p>\n<p>We were a small and completely self-sustained team with 3 clients and 2 guides. We brought food and fuel for several weeks; if the weather turned bad, we would have to wait and hunker down. We can&#8217;t get off the mountain unless the weather is suitable for flying. Hiking out doesn&#8217;t appear to be an option, probably a 1-2 week journey through no-mans land in itself.<\/p>\n<p>There are very little technical difficulties on the Kings Trench route. We ascended using skis and roped up for glacier travel. The main challenges here are the extreme cold and high altitude. I can now say that Mt. Logan is likely the wildest and most remote of all Panamerican Peaks!<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/upload.wikimedia.org\/wikipedia\/commons\/4\/4a\/Mount_Logan.jpg\" alt=\"Mt. Logan from South-West - Picture from Wikipedia page\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/peaks\/logan\/Logan_92_Skier.jpg\" alt=\"From a 1992 ascent, photo by Michael Schmitt\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The above picture is from the interesting and <a href=\"http:\/\/www.virtualmuseum.ca\/Exhibitions\/Logan\/en\/index.php?\/md\/home\">educational Yukon Government Museum&#8217;s page on Mt. Logan<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>See also our guide Rich Prohaska&#8217;s own Blog with entries on this and other <a href=\"http:\/\/richprohaska.wordpress.com\/category\/mt-logan\/\">Mount Logan expeditions<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Daily Notes<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>May 18 &#8211; Day 1 &#8211; Monday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: Clear, no wind, temp +10C (13:00), extreme UV. Shed almost all layers, afternoon heat very intense. Temp dropping to 0C (17:00) and -10C (22:00); overnight probably to -20C.<\/p>\n<p>Snow firm, light crust on top. 180 cm since last year minimum.<\/p>\n<p>Set up all tents and cook tent. Sort gear for planned carry tomorrow.<\/p>\n<p>Food:<br \/>\n13:00 drink 3\/4 l tea and water<br \/>\n15:30 eat bread and beef jerky<br \/>\n20:30 carot soup and pasta dinner<br \/>\n21:00 hot tea, chocolate pieces<\/p>\n<p>Vitals:<br \/>\n80bpm, 90 blood oxy<br \/>\nFeeling great, good appetite.<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox morning and evening.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 19 &#8211; Day 2 &#8211; Tuesday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: Clear, slight mountain wind, overnight -14C in the tent!<br \/>\nWarming up fast in the sun, pressure 1015 mb slightly down;<\/p>\n<p>Food: 2.5 pancakes with jam, coffee, tea. After carry (5hr up, 1.5hr<br \/>\ndown Ski) carot noodle soup, then Rotini Primavera, then trail mix,<br \/>\ntea, hot Gatorade.<\/p>\n<p>Packing food and fuel for carry to camp 1; very heavy carry (40-50 kg) on sled &#038; pack.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 56bpm, feeling great.<br \/>\nAfter carry 80bpm, 95 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm<\/p>\n<p>2 avalanches on both sides of trench. Everything worked well with skis<br \/>\nand bindings.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 20 &#8211; Day 3 &#8211; Wednesday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: slight overcast, no wind, -10C in tent overnight; pressure<br \/>\n1016 stable, increasing to 1018 by 19:00<\/p>\n<p>Food: Eggs and cereal breakfast, coffee and Gatorade. Tuna and 2<br \/>\nslices of bread with cheese for lunch, trail mix and more Gatorade.<br \/>\nGarlic Broccoli soup and pasta for dinner, followed by hot chocolate.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 80 bpm, 95 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm<br \/>\nSlight muscle soreness in calves from pulling sleds.<\/p>\n<p>Packing up everything incl tents to establish Camp 1 at 3315m. Climb<br \/>\ntoday in 4:10  (compared to 5:10 yesterday). Set up Camp 1 by 17:00.<\/p>\n<p>Mood is very good; everyone is doing well sofar (except Mike&#8217;s<br \/>\nblisters). Team of four (Mike Wiegele) is camping right next to us.<br \/>\nGlorious evening with sunshine until 22:30! Spectacular colors of<br \/>\nseracs on surrounding walls. Sitting in cook tent in the sun wearing<br \/>\nsunglasses at 22:15 without wind &#8211; magnificent!<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 21 &#8211; Day 4 &#8211; Thursday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: clear, barometer up to 1019 in the morning, temp -14C in tent overnight!<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 80bpm, 90 oxy (same in morning and evening),<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm<\/p>\n<p>Food: Cereal in morning, hot Gatorade and coffee. Bread with cheese<br \/>\nand sausage for lunch, various chocolate bars and 3 l Gatorade until<br \/>\nevening, hot corn soup and Pasta with garlic, dark chocolate and tea.<\/p>\n<p>Today we carried food and fuel to King&#8217;s Col, our Camp 2 at 4170m. The first 450m vertical we could go unroped due to switchbacks up a<br \/>\nrelatively steep hill (which wouldn&#8217;t work well roped up with sleds);<br \/>\ntime 1hr40min. Then we needed to wait for the rest of the group and<br \/>\nhad lunch. The rest of the way roped again, but terribly slow. Another<br \/>\n400m in 4hrs! Some concern about ability of all to summit if going is<br \/>\nthis slow 2000m below summit elevation. Then skied down to Camp 1,<br \/>\ntricky snow but great scenery all the way!<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 22 &#8211; Day 5 &#8211; Friday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: clear and sunny, some Cu clouds in afternoon, barometric<br \/>\npressure 1017 am, then 1016 pm. East wind all day at 10-30km\/h. In<br \/>\nevening Logan main summit had lenti cloud cover. Temp -10C in tent<br \/>\novernight, sunny but colder to ascend due to wind; Evening temp at<br \/>\nKing Col was -16.8C, considerable windchill. (First time I used my<br \/>\ndown jacket and mitts.)<\/p>\n<p>Food: Cereal and coffee at Camp 1 for breakfast, then hot Gatorade<br \/>\nalong the way, some &#8220;Landjaeger&#8221; sausage and trail mix for lunch; hot<br \/>\npasta soup and pasta with marinata and sausage. More Gatorade and tea (~3l per day).<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 76bpm in morning, 95 bpm and 85 oxy in evening at 4150m. I had trouble catching my breath while working to level the snow and set up my tent &#8211; the altitude makes itself felt!<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox only in evening (to stretch supply).<br \/>\nMartin (assistant guide) doesn&#8217;t feel too good (slight headache).<\/p>\n<p>Reaching King Col was hard work today. We now have most of our food and fuel up here at 4150m. After we reached Camp 2 Hans Kammerlander and another party of two Austrians returned since the route is impassable after a bridge over a huge crevasse collapsed at 4700m before Camp 3. The only route they saw leads through unstable seracs which they deemed too risky and thus turned around and descended.<br \/>\nAlso, Hans&#8217; friend Wilfried didn&#8217;t feel well after having reached 5300m two days ago with only four days to get there &#8211; probably altitude sickness. They descend on foot since the icefall swept away their ski cache.<br \/>\nTomorrow we plan to go up to see for ourselves.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 23 &#8211; Day 6 &#8211; Saturday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: dawn clear and cold, -17.8C in tent, barometer has fallen to<br \/>\n1013mb, the high pressure system is ending. Wind E at 10-20km\/h, with a few stronger gusts overnight. As we hiked up around noon clouds set in and slight snowfall.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 75 bpm, 85 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm<br \/>\nVery tired after day hike to 4700m.<\/p>\n<p>Food: Cereal and roasted bagle with Camenbert cheese; during day cereal bars and a few nuts. rice soup followed by Clam Chowder with rice.<\/p>\n<p>Thought about Tyrolean Traverse for crevasse at 4700m &#8211; maybe our only way up and the team of six from Quebec only way down! We hiked up with crampons to the big crevasse &#8211; impassable!<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 24 &#8211; Day 7 &#8211; Sunday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: cloudy, light snowfall, occasional sunny spots; temp -12C in<br \/>\ntent overnight, barometer slightly rising to 1015mb, clearing in<br \/>\nevening but clouds below.<\/p>\n<p>Food: scrumptious breakfast with roasted bagels and cheese, coffee,<br \/>\nhot Gatorade. Afternoon tea and hot Gatorade; then cream of mushroom and asparagus soup and pasta with tomato sauce and tuna. More hot Gatorade.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 75bpm, 88 oxy.<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm.<\/p>\n<p>Rest day with prolonged reading session in tent in early afternoon.<br \/>\n(Mozart on iPod and &#8220;Your Inner Fish&#8221; on Amazon Kindle provide quite<br \/>\nthe contrast to the environment beyond the tent walls!)<br \/>\nOther team went down today (Andy, Mark, Crosby, Rosi) as Andy felt<br \/>\nsick since day before.<br \/>\nTeam of 6 Quebec climbers came down from summit and made their way through seracs around crevasse. They dug out their stashed gear from King Col and kept descending on ski.<br \/>\nTeam of 4 Norwegians arrived after full carry from Camp 1. Travel on<br \/>\nXC-ski with strongly built sleds and interesting leather-Goretex boots.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 25 &#8211; Day 8 &#8211; Monday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: windy overnight, gusts perhaps 50 km\/h. Clear morning, -10C in tent overnight; sunny and often very intense heat on glacier; upon return to tent >20C in tent. Some Cu clouds coming in around 5pm.<br \/>\nStill 1014mb, evening 1013mb.<\/p>\n<p>Food: Granola cereal and hot chocolate for breakfast. Toblerone and<br \/>\nMars bar for lunch. Bagel sandwich with eggs and sausage at 6pm. Corn rice soup and pasta with marinara sauce and blue cheese for dinner. Drank 4l of Gatorade and 1l of hot chocolate today \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 78bpm, 91 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm.<\/p>\n<p>Plan to go up light to recon route around crevasse in good light and<br \/>\nvisibility. Found new route to left of crevasse (under Seracs) and<br \/>\ndescended on route to the right. Didn&#8217;t seem so bad. This is great as<br \/>\nit keeps our summit bid alive! Norwegians also came up to &#8220;Fort Knox&#8221;<br \/>\njust below the crevasse as small carry on their &#8220;rest day&#8221;!<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 26 &#8211; Day 9 &#8211; Tuesday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: cloudy with sunny spots; -10C in tent overnight due to<br \/>\nclouds; 1012mb<\/p>\n<p>Food: cereal for breakfast; 3l Gatorade, some chocolate bars along the way. Great beans and pasta soup and spaghetti for dinner.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 88 bpm, 88 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm.<\/p>\n<p>Very long and hard day. 10 hrs roundtrip carry food and fuel to Camp 3<br \/>\nat 4850m. Navigated crevasse twice. Extremely heavy backpack (35-40 kg). Took 1 hrs for 100 m vertical gain. Back at tent around 21:30!<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 27 &#8211; Day 10 &#8211; Wednesday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: -14C in tent overnight, some snowshowers, very hot without<br \/>\nwind up the slope;<\/p>\n<p>Food: cereal and coffee, hot Gatorade, sausage wrap and bars on trail, good bean soup in evening.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 80 bpm, 90 oxy<\/p>\n<p>Breaking down tents and moving up to camp 3. Very hard day, pulling<br \/>\nsleds up very steep slopes (often slipping sideways and tumbling over).<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 28 &#8211; Day 11 &#8211; Thursday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: -20C in tent overnight! Light snow through thin layer of<br \/>\nclouds. Sunny on top, but very windy.<\/p>\n<p>Food: cereal, hot Gatorade, Mars chocolate bars, alphabet soup with<br \/>\nsausage, beef pasta mix.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 88 bpm, 88 oxy in morning;<br \/>\n92 bpm, 81 oxy in evening.<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am and pm; Aspirin in evening.<\/p>\n<p>Carry up to Camp 4 at 5250m. Found Hans Kammerlander&#8217;s tent, dug it<br \/>\nout and moved up to camp 4; -20C and strong wind;<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 29 &#8211; Day 12 &#8211; Friday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: -21.7C in tent overnight; (8 hrs later I measured 35.9C<br \/>\nbefore opening the vestibule to cool down &#8211; that&#8217;s almost 58C temp<br \/>\nswing in 8 hrs!) during day light wind and cloudy, with sun breaking<br \/>\nthrough clouds at our elevation and higher. Barometer falling way down to 1004 mb, the lowest since we&#8217;re here. This also caused strong winds overnight.<\/p>\n<p>Food: hot Gatorade and chocolate plus cereal bar for breakfast; bread<br \/>\nwith bacon and cheese for brunch<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 76 bpm, 84 oxy<br \/>\n1\/2 Diamox am<\/p>\n<p>Due to 1-2 remaining days of poor weather we take a rest day at Camp 3. After brunch spent time reading and relaxing in the tent. Took all cloth off and reveled naked in the 30C+ heat of the tent. Listened to iPod, dried out all cloths, recharged the Solio and my own &#8220;batteries&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 30 &#8211; Day 13 &#8211; Saturday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: -23.5C in tent overnight! Barometer trending up again, at<br \/>\n1008mb in the morning;<\/p>\n<p>Food:<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: Having trouble breathing through my nose at night.<\/p>\n<p>Today we carry our tents up to Camp 4 in order to get in position for<br \/>\na summit push two days later as the weather is supposed to get very<br \/>\nclear again for a couple of days.<\/p>\n<p><strong>May 31 &#8211; Day 14 &#8211; Sunday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: cold wind, 3 of us in tent, -15C overnight. Crossed Prospector&#8217;s Col and moved across plateau; very cold wind (20-30km\/h), trouble setting up mess tent.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 81 bpm, 80 oxy<\/p>\n<p>Food: soup with sausage, then Kathmandu Curry Rice, cheese crackers.<\/p>\n<p>Carry all put tents across Prospector&#8217;s Col (5500m) and set up Camp 5<br \/>\nbelow summit at 5080m. Very windy when walking and setting up tent.<br \/>\n(30-40km\/h)<\/p>\n<p><strong>June 1 &#8211; Day 15 &#8211; Monday &#8211; Summit Day<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: dawned clear, still about 20-30 km\/h wind, diminuishing<br \/>\nduring the day.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 76bpm , 82 oxy<\/p>\n<p>Food: Granola breakfast, Mars chocolate bars,<\/p>\n<p>12 hrs round-trip to Logan main summit. Beautifully clear skies,<br \/>\nhardly any wind on summit, spectacular views. On ascent in harmless looking terrain Lucille broke through a snow-covered crevasse and was hanging from the rope with only her head still above the snow. Good thing we are roped up!<\/p>\n<p><strong>June 2 &#8211; Day 16 &#8211; Tuesday<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Weather: wind abated overnight, -10C in tent overnight, almost calm<br \/>\n(5-10km\/h), clear skies, 1027 mb high pressure.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: 74 bpm, 84 oxy<\/p>\n<p>Food: Cereal and chocolate bars during the day, then pasta soup with<br \/>\nsausage and Italian pasta with beef for dinner.<\/p>\n<p>Retreat to Camp 3; took 6hrs to climb Prospector&#8217;s Col (5500m)! Then<br \/>\ndown walking to Camp 4 (5250m), further skied down to Camp 3 (4850m). Dumped excess food at Camp 4.<\/p>\n<p><strong>June 3 &#8211; Day 17 &#8211; Wednesday<\/strong><br \/>\nWeather: clear skies, some high cirrus clouds, morning temp -20C at<br \/>\ncamp 3 (4850m). High pressure system remains stationary, little wind.<br \/>\nGetting very hot during descent to Base camp.<\/p>\n<p>Vitals: No more pills, getting down to much lower elevations, feeling<br \/>\nsuper-strong due to acclimatization!<\/p>\n<p>Food: Granola cereal and 1l of hot tea, another 1.5l of water for the<br \/>\nway down. We dumped some of the food we had brought up at Camp 4 to reduce weight for descent.<\/p>\n<p>Today we descended with full backpacks and sleds on skis &#8211; tricky<br \/>\nbusiness, we tried various rigging techniques with different success &#8211;<br \/>\nRich put it best by stating that &#8220;all methods basically suck&#8221;.<br \/>\nDown crampon steep slope to King Col, lowered sleds on two ropes<br \/>\n(120m) to avoid down carry. Then ski down all the way to Base Camp,<br \/>\narrived by 5pm, called airstrip and pick up getting started right away.<br \/>\nLanding at Kluane Lake by 7:30pm and hitch-hiked back to Whitehorse by midnight &#8211; back to oxygen-rich air, springtime smells and<br \/>\ntemperatures, a hot shower and civilization!<\/p>\n<p>[End of expedition]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Elevation: 5959 m (19551 ft) Location: Canada, Yukon Territory; 60? 34&#8242; N; 140? 24&#8242; W Distinction: Highest mountain of Canada, second highest of North-America (part of Second Seven Summits) and the most remote of all Panamerican Peaks, surrounded by the largest non-polar icefields in the world. Photos of Mount Logan. Also, check out the Logan [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":865,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/892"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=892"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/892\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2611,"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/892\/revisions\/2611"}],"up":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/865"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/tlausser.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=892"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}