Success on Mount Logan

After 15 days on the mountain our entire team reached the summit of Mount Logan on June 1, 2009.

The weather turned really nice again after a few windy days up high. A high pressure system had moved in giving us clear skies and almost unlimited visibility on the top. For example, we looked down some 4000m to the huge Seward Glacier on the South, and some 6000m to the Pacific Ocean beyond the St. Elias mountain to the South-West.

Here is a view from Prospector’s Col (5500m) to the West. The prominent mountain behind me is King Peak (5173m) which dominates the lower parts of the King’s Trench route and towers well over King Col (4150m) where we had our Camp II.

View from Prospector's Col on Mount Logan to the West with King Peak in the background

BIG Thanks to our mountain guide Rich Prohaska and assistant guide Martin Fichtl! It was hard work for us, but these two guys put in even more hard work, found a safe route for us, dished up excellent food under all conditions and kept a calm, always positive spirit. What a pleasure to have such competent guides – it made all the difference; we could not have done it without them. When other teams turned around in the face of altitude sickness or technical / weather challenges, we just used to say: “We are not worried, because we have Rich!”

See also the official Canada West Mountain School Logan page with Blog updates over the last 2 weeks (thanks to sat phone updates from Rich along the way).

I will upload more pictures and update the Logan peak page as soon as I recover a bit from the last 2 weeks – down here in Whitehorse some 4000m lower the air is so oxygen-rich and the sights and smells of spring are overwhelming after 17 days on the glacier, the last 12 nights above 4000m and the last 7 nights between 4850m and 5250m…

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